How to Get Rid of Rats & Mice
Rats and mice are not just unpleasant houseguests. They gnaw through wiring and pipes, contaminate food, breed quickly and can spread disease. The sooner you act, the easier they are to deal with. Here is how to find them, deal with them, and keep them out.
The thing to remember with rodents is that they multiply fast. A small problem in autumn, when they move indoors looking for warmth and food, can become a real infestation by winter if it is left alone. Acting early is far easier than trying to clear an established population, so the moment you suspect rats or mice, it is worth taking seriously.
Rats or Mice? It Makes a Difference
Before you tackle the problem, it helps to know which rodent you have, because they behave differently. Mice are small, curious and breed prolifically, often nesting indoors close to food and exploring widely, which is why they are caught relatively easily but turn up in numbers. Rats are larger, warier and more cautious of anything new, including traps, so they take more patience and the right placement to control.
Rats also tend to follow set runways and nest in roof voids, subfloors and burrows outside, while mice will happily set up inside wall cavities and cupboards. Getting this right early shapes everything from the size of trap you use to where you place it, and it is one of the first things a professional will work out on arrival.
Signs of Rodents
Rats and mice are mostly active at night and stay out of sight, so you usually notice the evidence before you see the animal. Look and listen for:
- Droppings, often in cupboards, the pantry, along walls or in the roof
- Gnaw marks on food packaging, timber, plastic and even wiring
- Scratching or scurrying noises in walls and ceilings at night
- Nests of shredded paper, fabric or insulation in quiet spots
- Greasy smear marks along skirtings and walls where they run
- A musky smell, strongest in enclosed areas like the roof void
- Pets suddenly fixated on a wall, cupboard or appliance
Droppings are the quickest clue to what you are dealing with. Mouse droppings are small, like grains of rice, while rat droppings are noticeably larger. Seeing rodents during the day, rather than just at night, often points to a heavier infestation, because the population has grown enough that they are competing for food and space.
Clean up safely: Rodent droppings and urine can carry disease, so never sweep or vacuum them dry, as that can send particles into the air. Wear disposable gloves, dampen the area with disinfectant first, wipe it up, then ventilate the space and wash your hands well afterwards.
Trap Types Compared
Traps are the most common DIY approach, and they can work well for a small problem. Each type has its strengths and weaknesses.
Snap traps
Cheap, effective and quick when used right. Place them against walls where rodents run, with the trigger facing the wall, and use a small amount of an attractive bait like peanut butter.
Electronic traps
Deliver a quick result and are easy to empty without contact. They cost more, but many people prefer them for being clean and reliable for mice in particular.
Live-catch traps
Catch the rodent unharmed, but you then have to release it well away from any home, and rats and mice often simply return or struggle to survive elsewhere.
Glue boards
We would steer you away from these. They cause a slow, distressing death, can catch unintended wildlife and pets, and are widely considered inhumane.
Whatever trap you choose, placement is everything. Rodents travel along walls rather than across open spaces, so set traps flush against the wall in the areas where you have seen droppings or heard noise. Use several traps rather than one, since rodents are wary of new objects and you want to improve your odds. Check and reset them regularly.
About rodent poisons: Rodenticides can work, but they carry real risks. A poisoned rodent can be eaten by a pet, owl or other wildlife and pass the poison on, and the baits themselves are dangerous to children. If you use any poison, it should only ever be in a lockable, tamper-resistant bait station and strictly to the label. Honestly, this is one area where leaving it to a professional, who uses secured stations and places them safely, is the wiser choice.
Sealing Entry Points
Trapping deals with the rodents that are already inside. Sealing entry points is what stops new ones getting in, and it is the part most people skip. Without it, you can trap rodents all winter and still have a problem, because more keep arriving.
Rodents can squeeze through astonishingly small gaps. A mouse can fit through a hole the width of a pencil, around six millimetres, and rats need only a little more. So the gaps that matter are smaller than you would think. Work around the outside and inside of the home and:
- Seal gaps around pipes, cables and vents where they enter the building
- Fit door sweeps and seals to external doors, including the garage
- Cover weep holes, vents and openings with fine metal mesh
- Fill larger gaps with steel wool or wire mesh set in sealant, since rodents chew through foam and plastic
- Check the roofline, eaves and where pipes enter, common rat highways
- Keep tree branches trimmed back from the roof
Remove the welcome mat too: Store food and pet food in sealed containers, clean up spills, keep bins closed, and clear away clutter and rubbish where rodents nest. The less food and shelter your home offers, the less appealing it is in the first place.
When DIY Fails
DIY trapping and proofing can handle a small, early problem. It tends to fall short when the population is already established, and there are some clear signs it is time to call in a professional:
- You keep catching rodents but the numbers do not drop
- The scratching and scurrying noises continue night after night
- You are seeing them in daylight
- You cannot find or reach the entry points they are using
- They are nesting in the roof void or wall cavities
- The problem comes back every year
A professional treats a rodent problem as a whole. They inspect to work out whether you have rats or mice and how they are getting in, place baits safely in secured stations and set traps where they will actually work, and advise on the proofing needed to keep them out for good. They also follow up, which is what turns a temporary dip in numbers into a lasting result.
Hearing Them in the Roof?
If the noises will not stop or you cannot find how they are getting in, we will track down the problem and seal it off.
See our rodent control serviceRats and mice are one of those problems that only gets harder the longer it is left. Catch it early, trap and proof properly, and remove the food and shelter that drew them in, and you can clear them out and keep them out. If they have already settled into the roof or walls, or keep coming back no matter what you try, a professional will save you a long, frustrating winter of half-measures. The cost of acting early is almost always far lower than the cost of repairing chewed wiring, contaminated insulation or a problem that has been left to grow for months.